1) Vertical Mulching & Trenching
This is performed by air-boring holes in a grid pattern beneath the canopy of a tree. The holes are typically filled with soil amendments and/ or a slow release, organic fertilizer to help improve soil structure and hold moisture for the root system. Vertical mulching can be very beneficial to a tree’s  root system and is used quite often to strenghten stressed or declining trees. Where severe soil compaction or fill is present, the tool can be used to cut horizontal trenches in the soil for even greater soil modification.

2) Root Collar Excavation
This is performed to remove excess soil from the top of root flares and around the trunks of trees. Trees are commonly planted too deep or have excess soil covering the root flares resulting in decline, girdling root formation, root rot and even tree death. During this procedure, Seascape Technicians blow excess soil from around the root collar and then evaluate the structure of the root system to determine the appropriate corrective measures needed to enhance root development or repair damage to the tree trunk itself.

3) Root System Identification
No longer do we have to guess where roots extend beneath trees. With this new tool we can now actually trace roots out from the base of a tree. Locating these roots provides us with the necessary information to make the appropriate decisions when considering where to place buildings, curbs, driveways or underground utilities to minimize root damage.

Although they are not the answer to every problem, the Air Spade   provides Seascape  with new options to significantly enhance the health and vitality of your landscape. Contact your Seascape Arborist for further information on how these tools can benefit your trees and shrubs.

Technological advances are continuously making their mark within the tree care industry. One of the newest trends is the use of the Air Spade.  Originally, these tools were developed as a means to excavate unexploded landmines by the military and to help free miners trapped by cave-ins. These tools utilize a focused, high pressure stream of air which allows for soil to be excavated without damage to structures in the surrounding soil. The Air Spade allows Seascape to perform soil work safely, efficiently and without damage to buried roots, underground wires  or irrigation systems. These new tools have eliminated the use of heavy mechanical drills to breakthrough compacted soils and the need to excavate soil by hand from around root collars or buried utilities.

As you continue to water and normal rainfall returns, any drought stress in your lawn should quickly recover.  IF IT DOES NOT, please call us for a free service call as there is always the possibility of surface insect or grub activity.

Crabgrass is an annual grass, which germinates throughout the spring and summer and dies in the early fall. It is generally controlled using a spring pre-emergent (before it germinates) application. If it is able to germinate, it is difficult to control postemergently.   

There are several reasons why crabgrass may be present in your lawn despite a pre-emergent control application in the spring, including:

·        Your lawn or surrounding lawns had crabgrass last year. Each crabgrass plant produces thousands of seeds. Controls will control 95-99% of the seed, but 1-5% of the seed may escape the control.

·        Areas of thin grass will get crabgrass, as there is no competition from permanent grasses. Competition plays a role in crabgrass control. No pre-emergent will control crabgrass in these areas.

·        Areas along streets, drives or walks are often compact and receive excessive heat stress. Crabgrass is quick to germinate in these areas.

·        Newly seeded areas in spring will almost always have some crabgrass.

·        Heavy raking or de-thatching eliminates the pre-emergent control.

·        Pre-emergent controls applied in the spring will only control the initial “flush” of crabgrass in May. A small amount of crabgrass may germinate in July or August. Such late season crabgrass, however, generally will die off before it has the chance to become large and suffocate other grasses.

The first sign of drought is a lawn turning darker green, followed shortly by browning. If you are unable to water and your lawn does go into drought stress, SeaScape’s program is automatically adjusted for the dry conditions.  This will occur in many areas this season as several towns are already in a water ban.

If you are watering with a sprinkler and hose, or an automatic system, try to supply about one inch of water per week. Place a shallow can under the sprinkler to determine the amount of water applied. Some guidelines:

• If using a hose and sprinkler – water twice per week in each area for about an hour.
• Automatic systems – water every other day if possible for 30 – 40 minutes. Sunny area zones should receive more water than shady zones.

There is considerable confusion on the part of some homeowners concerning the use of the term “organic” as it applies to lawn care materials.  Some of this confusion is intentional on the part of some lawn care companies wanting to sell an organic program. . 

Strictly speaking, an “organic” product mean nothing more than the product chemically contains the element carbon somewhere in its molecule.  However, there can be both natural and synthetic organic products.  Natural organic products are derived from animals and/or plant sources, while synthetic organic products are derived from a lab or a factory.

Most lawn fertilizers and control products are synthetic organic products.  Thus, a lawn care company can offer an organic program to an unsuspecting consumer who perceives that he/she is receiving a natural organic product. 

SeaScape Lawn Care offers both types of lawn care programs.  Most customers choose our traditional program (yes, it contains synthetic organic products) because we are able to control pests such as crabgrass, grubs and dandelions.

SeaScape also offers a truly natural organic fertilization program as well.  The fertilizer in this program is derived from animal sources such as chicken manure.  The program does not contain any synthetic pest controls.  Natural pest controls are either nonexistent, very expensive or do not do a good job.  See the details of our natural program in the SeaScape brochure. 

Many SeaScape customers will opt for a combination of our two programs – they want the advantages of the all natural organic fertilizer, but would like to also receive a limited amount of crabgrass and grub control as well.  If this is the case, we can customize a program for you.  Give us a call if you would like more details. 

Proper mowing is a critical factor in your lawn’s health and appearance.  To mow properly, several issues must be considered – height, frequency, clipping removal, and blade sharpness.

·        MOWING HEIGHT: Under most circumstances, lawns in this area should be mown at 2 ½ -3”.  This generally is the highest or next-to-highest setting on your mower.                                                                                                                                                                                 

Mowing height is critical.  If you mow too short the root system will be limited and shallow.  Your lawn will be more prone to summer drought and disease stress.  The higher you mow, the deeper your lawn’s root system will develop.  Your lawn will stay greener longer into the summer and require less water. 

Some people like to mow lower at the time of the last fall mowing.  If you do, do not wait to raise your mower.  Raise it back to 2 ½ - 3” in early spring to encourage a deep root system before summer. 

·        MOWING FREQUENCY: Most people mow once a week, which is fine.  However, mowing more frequently, especially in the spring, will improve your lawn appearance. If you mow less frequently (i.e. every other week), lawn quality will suffer.

In general, do not remove more than 1/3 of the height of the grass each time you mow.  For example, if you’re mowing at 2”, mow before your lawn reaches 3” in height.

Lawns go through a natural growth surge in the early spring.  Ideally, you should mow every 4-5 days during this period, although this is not practical for most people.

·        CLIPPINGS:  Under most circumstances, do NOT remove clippings.  University research repeatedly has shown that clippings do not contribute to thatch.  Furthermore, clippings contain nitrogen, which becomes available to your lawn as clippings decompose.  When you remove clippings you’re removing a source of this important nutrient.  In addition, mowing without the catcher will reduce mowing time. 

You should remove clippings under some circumstances.  If you observe “clumps” of clippings on the lawn after mowing they should be removed.  This occurs when the lawn grows too long between mowing, and it is common during periods of high rainfall and in early spring.  Clumps of clippings repeatedly left on your lawn will lead to lawn deterioration. 

·        BLADE SHARPNESS:  Mower blades should be sharpened professionally at least once per year.  Between professional sharpening, touch-up the blade yourself with a file every month or two.  A dull blade will tear the grass, not cut it, making your lawn appear brown after mowing.