SeaScape Professional Lawn, Landscape & Tree Services

Crabgrass is an annual grass, which germinates throughout the spring and summer and dies in the early fall. It is generally controlled using a spring pre-emergent (before it germinates) application. If it is able to germinate, it is difficult to control postemergently.   

There are several reasons why crabgrass may be present in your lawn despite a pre-emergent control application in the spring, including:

·        Your lawn or surrounding lawns had crabgrass last year. Each crabgrass plant produces thousands of seeds. Controls will control 95-99% of the seed, but 1-5% of the seed may escape the control.

·        Areas of thin grass will get crabgrass, as there is no competition from permanent grasses. Competition plays a role in crabgrass control. No pre-emergent will control crabgrass in these areas.

·        Areas along streets, drives or walks are often compact and receive excessive heat stress. Crabgrass is quick to germinate in these areas.

·        Newly seeded areas in spring will almost always have some crabgrass.

·        Heavy raking or de-thatching eliminates the pre-emergent control.

·        Pre-emergent controls applied in the spring will only control the initial “flush” of crabgrass in May. A small amount of crabgrass may germinate in July or August. Such late season crabgrass, however, generally will die off before it has the chance to become large and suffocate other grasses.

Organic vs. Natural Lawn Care Programs  

There is considerable confusion on the part of some homeowners concerning the use of the term “organic” as it applies to lawn care materials.  Some of this confusion is intentional on the part of some lawn care companies wanting to sell an organic program. . 

Strictly speaking, an “organic” product mean nothing more than the product chemically contains the element carbon somewhere in its molecule.  However, there can be both natural and synthetic organic products.  Natural organic products are derived from animals and/or plant sources, while synthetic organic products are derived from a lab or a factory.

Most lawn fertilizers and control products are synthetic organic products.  Thus, a lawn care company can offer an organic program to an unsuspecting consumer who perceives that he/she is receiving a natural organic product. 

SeaScape Lawn Care offers both types of lawn care programs.  Most customers choose our traditional program (yes, it contains synthetic organic products) because we are able to control pests such as crabgrass, grubs and dandelions.

SeaScape also offers a truly natural organic fertilization program as well.  The fertilizer in this program is derived from animal sources such as chicken manure.  The program does not contain any synthetic pest controls.  Natural pest controls are either nonexistent, very expensive or do not do a good job.  See the details of our natural program in the SeaScape brochure. 

Many SeaScape customers will opt for a combination of our two programs – they want the advantages of the all natural organic fertilizer, but would like to also receive a limited amount of crabgrass and grub control as well.  If this is the case, we can customize a program for you.  Give us a call if you would like more details. 

Proper mowing is a critical factor in your lawn’s health and appearance.  To mow properly, several issues must be considered – height, frequency, clipping removal, and blade sharpness.

·        MOWING HEIGHT: Under most circumstances, lawns in this area should be mown at 2 ½ -3”.  This generally is the highest or next-to-highest setting on your mower.                                                                                                                                                                                 

Mowing height is critical.  If you mow too short the root system will be limited and shallow.  Your lawn will be more prone to summer drought and disease stress.  The higher you mow, the deeper your lawn’s root system will develop.  Your lawn will stay greener longer into the summer and require less water. 

Some people like to mow lower at the time of the last fall mowing.  If you do, do not wait to raise your mower.  Raise it back to 2 ½ - 3” in early spring to encourage a deep root system before summer. 

·        MOWING FREQUENCY: Most people mow once a week, which is fine.  However, mowing more frequently, especially in the spring, will improve your lawn appearance. If you mow less frequently (i.e. every other week), lawn quality will suffer.

In general, do not remove more than 1/3 of the height of the grass each time you mow.  For example, if you’re mowing at 2”, mow before your lawn reaches 3” in height.

Lawns go through a natural growth surge in the early spring.  Ideally, you should mow every 4-5 days during this period, although this is not practical for most people.

·        CLIPPINGS:  Under most circumstances, do NOT remove clippings.  University research repeatedly has shown that clippings do not contribute to thatch.  Furthermore, clippings contain nitrogen, which becomes available to your lawn as clippings decompose.  When you remove clippings you’re removing a source of this important nutrient.  In addition, mowing without the catcher will reduce mowing time. 

You should remove clippings under some circumstances.  If you observe “clumps” of clippings on the lawn after mowing they should be removed.  This occurs when the lawn grows too long between mowing, and it is common during periods of high rainfall and in early spring.  Clumps of clippings repeatedly left on your lawn will lead to lawn deterioration. 

·        BLADE SHARPNESS:  Mower blades should be sharpened professionally at least once per year.  Between professional sharpening, touch-up the blade yourself with a file every month or two.  A dull blade will tear the grass, not cut it, making your lawn appear brown after mowing.